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Tourism in Cebu: The Historic Downtown Tour

When my parents went to Vietnam for a vacation, we could not help but notice how organized the tourism industry was. We booked a hotel in District One, which is considered as the Tourist District. It has all types of places to stay from a backpacker’s hostels to luxurious hotels. As a compliment, the place also has different types of dining establishments. The streets are filled with tourists until late at night.

We decided to book a packaged tour which was advertised in our hotel. I noticed that the same packaged tours were advertised in all the hotels around the district, and in the tourist websites as well (such as TripAdvisor). On the day of the tour, we were told to wait in the hotel lobby. Someone came in and led us to a spot where other tourists from other hotels who also booked the same tour were waiting. The bus arrived and the person who gathered us turned us over to the tour guide who came with the bus. We noticed that the bus and the guide, as well as the person who gathered us, all belong to different companies. When we reached our destination, we noticed so many other tour guides and buses belonging to different companies but all coordinated in taking care of the tourists.

This experience made me think of Cebu City. Cebu City has so much to offer to tourists. In the first place, the city is very historic and cultural. Magellan landed and died here. Legaspi formed the first settlement in the Philippines here. The city is known for its devotion to the Sto. Niño and the Sinulog are also very popular. The beaches of Mactan is also very near. All other tourist destinations in the other municipalities in Cebu are just a bus ride away. Bohol is just a day trip away. The only problem is that the tourism industry is not well coordinated.

A proposed route for the walking tour of historic downtown Cebu City.

I learned from talking to people that the program of the national, provincial and local governments are not coordinated. I was told that the same is true between the government and the private sector. There is no specific “district” for tourists and there are no packaged tours that are centrally organized and advertised in the hotels. If this is true then it is such a wasted opportunity.

The Plaza Independencia was redesigned several years ago when the SRP tunnel was constructed beneath it. The new design made the plaza more accessible and more open. (photo source: https://www.cebucity.gov.ph/news-details/2764-the-new-plaza-independencia )
Fort San Pedro. The oldest fort in the Philippines although it is very small. It was recently rehabilitated by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines. It now houses a branch of the National Museum. (photo source: https://www.cebu-bluewaters.com/cebu-fort-san-pedro.html )

One such packaged tour can simply be a walking tour to historic downtown. One possible route is illustrated in Figure 1. This, however, includes a ride using the “calesa” (horse-drawn carriage), which is part of the attraction. Because of its big space, the Fort San Pedro and Plaza Independencia is the ideal place to gather people to start the tour. The Fort is not big, and it has the extension of the National Museum.

The Malacañang sa Sugbo. Formerly Cebu Port Building. It was renovated as an extension office of the President of the Philippines during the time of Gloria Macapagal Arroyo. It suffered structural damages during the 2013 earthquake and was no longer in use. It is still off-limits to visitors. (photo source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malaca%C3%B1ang_sa_Sugbo )
Compaña Maritima. This is a ruin of an old hotel. There was a proposal to rehabilitate this into a boutique hotel with a bird sanctuary beside it but the project was shelved for some reason. (photo source: https://steemit.com/photomatic-contest/@aikee/contest-three-photos-series-with-street-photography-captured )

The “calesa” can take the tourist to the Senior Citizen’s Park. Along the way, the “Malacañang sa Sugbu” and the Campacaña Maritima can be pointed out. After dropping off the tourists in the Senior Citizen’s Park, the “calesa” goes directly to Plaza Hamabar to wait for them there. From the park, the tourists can start the heritage walk, first to the proposed Chines Museum (Gotiaoco Building), then to the Rizal Park with the Magellan’s Cross, then to the Sto. Niño Basilica, the Cebu Cathedral, and its museum, then take the “calesa” again from Plaza Hamabar to the Parian monument.

The Gotiaoco Building was built in 1910 and was home to shipping companies and utility companies that still operate until today. It was partly destroyed during the war but was partly rehabilitated. It is now being renovated for adaptive reuse as a Chinese Heritage Museum. (photo source: http://mustbethatgirl.blogspot.com/2008/05/cebus-old-buildings-part2.html )
The Magellan’s Cross. Probably the only icon that is unmistakenly Cebu. It was rehabilitated when the King of Spain visited Cebu several years back, also after the 2013 earthquake. (photo source: http://www.siranglente.com/2016/03/magellans-cross-visit-history-cebu-travel-guide.html )

On the way to the Parian monument, the Colon Street can be pointed out. After dropping off the tourists in the Parian monument, the “calesa” goes directly to Casa Gorordo to wait for the tourists there. From the Parian monument, the tourists take the second stretch of their walking tour. They first visit the 1730 Jesuit House, then the Yap-San Diego House, then finally the Casa Gorordo. From Casa Gorordo, the tourists take the “calesa” to Museo Sugbo (the old carcel) before going back to Plaza Independencia.

The Sto. Niño Church. Home to the devotion to the Holy Child and center of the famous Sinulog celebration. The bell tower was recently restored by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines after it crumbled during the 2013 earthquake. (photo source: http://www.choosephilippines.com/go/heritage-sites/766/basilica-minore-del-santo-nino-cebu/ )
The Metropolitan Cathedral. The seat of the bishop of Cebu. The front plaza has been converted into a parking space. (photo source: https://robertfairchildphoto.photoshelter.com/image/I00002Qq4_DIK.00 )

I actually toured a lot of friends following this route by walking only (except the Museo Sugbo). The main problem with walking is that the heat can be unbearable. Tourists will definitely love the “calesa” ride but it will be very tricky for the city government to coordinate this with the daily traffic. A small, air-conditioned tourist bus is an alternative to the “calesa”.

The Cathedral Museum. Located beside the Cathedral but across the street, this used to be a convent.(photo source: https://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g298460-d3604641-i199463627-Cathedral_Museum_of_Cebu-Cebu_City_Cebu_Island_Visayas.html )
1730 Jesuit House of Museo Parian sa Sugbo. Probably the oldest dated house in the Philippines. What makes it more special is that it is hidden inside a warehouse. The house is currently undergoing preservation through a collaboration between the owner, the Escuella Taller de Filipinas and the University of Shiga Prefecture in Japan. (photo source: https://www.davaolife.com/davao-life-in-cebu-via-airasia-walking-heritage-tour-by-galleon-san-pedro-tours.html )

There are many other packaged tours that can be organized. The Ramon Aboitiz Foundation, Inc. (RAFI) organized a yearly event called “Gabii sa Kabilin” (Heritage Night). It is a night when participating tourist establishments (museums and sites) would organize packaged tours and everything seems coordinated. But this happens only once a year. Cebu City needs a program that runs the whole year through.

The Pairan Monument. It is not historical, but it sits on the plaza that used to front the San Juan Bautista Church in Parian which has long been “removed.” It serves as a landmark of the Parian area. (photo source: https://www.tripzilla.ph/cebu-city-historical-sites-diy-walking-tour/6240 )
The Yap-San Diego House is an example of a typical middle or upper class “mestiza stone houses” in Cebu. (photo source: http://www.choosephilippines.com/do/history-and-culture/3424/yap-sandiego-ancestral-house/)

I think this is very possible if all the concerned agencies work together. The only establishments that can easily mobilize their resources belong to the private sector. In fact, a lot of tour agencies have organized similar tours. I believe though that government involvement is crucial to its success.

Casa Gorordo. The house of a prominent family in Cebu is now a museum operated by the Ramon Aboitiz Foundation, Inc. (photo source: http://www.cebuphilippinestravel.com/casa-gorordo-museum/ )
The Museo Sugbo. This used to be the Carcel, a prison house. It was converted into a museum operated by the government. (photo source: )

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